Unexpected places to “wine” down in Charlotte
December 26, 2023
Breweries and coffee shops are becoming popular destinations for wine drinkers, too.
by Liz Logan
Years ago, Melissa Varvaro, co-owner of Summit Coffee NoDa, went out for drinks and returned forever changed. A connoisseur of craft beer and sipper of fine whiskey, Varvaro timidly tiptoed into the world of wine with the help of a knowledgeable server. “He brought out a glass of white wine and said, simply, ‘You’re not going to think of anything else after I say this to you: green pepper,’” Varvaro recalls. After a few sips of a vegetal sauvignon blanc, she picked up on the tasting notes and realized there was more to wine than a house chardonnay.
The dichotomy of wine drinkers — those who are sommelier-level adept or those grabbing a two-buck Chuck from the bottom rack of their local Trader Joe’s — is expanding into a spectrum as more approachable and diverse wines can be found not only in high-end restaurants but in unexpected spots, like Varvaro’s coffee shop.
Not only is there a shift in the types of establishments carrying curated wines, but also in the types of wines available. Dairelyn Glunt, co-owner of Salud Cerveceria, handpicks a rotating menu of natural wines (wines produced via traditional methods without additives). When the upstairs companion of Salud Beer Shop opened in 2017, it was one of the few places in Charlotte selling natural wine, Glunt says. Now natural wines of all types — pét-nats (short for pétillant naturel, a method of sparkling wine production), orange wines and small-production selections — can be found all around town, if you know where to look.
From coffee shops to specialty-food stores and breweries — here are a few of Charlotte’s hidden gems for unexpected wine.
HEX Coffee, Kitchen & Natural Wines
201 Camp Rd., Ste. 103
Located at Camp North End’s The Mount district, HEX Coffee, Kitchen & Natural Wines got its start as a coffee shop and roastery. The concept has evolved into a minimalist kitchen marrying the Japanese-Hawaiian and Southern heritages of its owners accompanied by a wine list centered on natural wines. Amphitheater-like seating and modern black booths with pops of sandalwood set against white brick walls give an ambience of elegance, while the outdoor seating is casual-yet-upscale.
Photograph of Hex Coffee, Kitchen & Natural Wines by unifyjono
Working with small, independent producers, co-owner Chandler Wrenn puts his focus on Hex’s dynamic by-the-glass selection. Wrenn hopes to draw curious palettes into the world of natural wine. “Our goal is to break down the perceived barrier into wine,” he says. “Natural wine is an opportunity to tell the story of provenance for some beautiful wines and, more importantly, the people who make it.”
Wrenn recommends: Jolie-Laide 2021 Syrah, Alder Springs, Mendocino
Free Range Bar
301 Camp Rd., Ste. 100
Steps away from HEX, Free Range Bar, with its exterior mural depicting lively yellow bumble bees, is best-known for craft beer focusing on local flora. It was from this same mindset that co-owner Jason Alexander began crafting the wine program found at both the Camp North End and Villa Heights locations.
“We chose wine partners that are small, creative and intentional with how they produce, and found this most easily achieved through the world of natural wine,” Alexander says. “With natural wine, there is a return to the old-school way of making wine with high quality ingredients and minimal processing — take care of soil as much as anything else, and you get out what you put in.”
Photographs of Free Range Bar by Loyd Visuals
Drew Jordan, Free Range’s beer buyer, curates a selection of weekly rotating bottles and seasonal by-the-glass options. Unique profiles and affordability take equal precedence. The selection closely compliments the beer program; there’s a lot of crossover with natural wine and the complexities you would find in wild or sour beer.
Alexander recommends: A chilled red wine. “Chilling a red leads to an easier sensory point, and a bonus is it will warm up as you drink it. If you take time in how it begins and ends, you’ll see how its expression can evolve.”
Salud Cerveceria
3306-C N. Davidson St.
The cozy-yet-vibrant Salud Cerveceria is home to a stellar lineup of craft beer and unique wood-fired pizza plus a selection of natural wines selected by co-owner Dairelyn Glunt. After leaving her banking job in 2016, Glunt poured herself into the wine program at Salud Beer Shop. She implemented the same intentionality when the Cerveceria opened in 2017, becoming a pioneer in Charlotte’s natural wine scene. “Back then, natural wine was not a thing — at least not here in Charlotte,” Glunt says.
The crux of her program is Wine Down Wednesday, where selections range from pét-nats to pinot noir. Each week, Glunt tastes and researches wines to create a four-wine selection from small vineyards consisting of orange wines, roses and (always) two reds. Orange wine is a skin-contact wine produced with white wine grapes, making production more akin to red wines, that has gained much popularity in the natural-wine movement. The diversity in tasting notes is based on region and how long the juice remains in contact with its skin during fermentation. As Bon Appetit put it, “It all comes down to what happens in the vineyard and winery.”
Photographs of Dairelyn Glunt at Salud Cerveceria by Justin Driscoll
The daily by-the-glass menu at Salud Cerveceria helps those new to the world of orange wine navigate their selection, with notes of how long wines were in contact with skin. Typically, the longer the maceration period, the bigger the shift in the tannin structure and the “funkier” the wine. As an added bonus, Glunt’s favorites are also marked on the list for those looking for an easy starting point.
Glunt recommends: A sparkling orange wine, like Domaine Glinavos Ioannina Paleokerisio from the Epirus region in Greece.
Reid’s Fine Foods Restaurant & Wine Bar
4331 Barclay Downs Dr.
Tucked behind SouthPark Mall, with other locations in Uptown and Myers Park, Reid’s Fine Foods’ bistro-esque interior beckons casual diners and drinkers to an afternoon of sipping and snacking. A sense of connection imbues the vast wine list found at Reid’s. Leyla Arcovio, director of wine operations and special events, says seasonality plays a significant role in the wines sold here — but it goes a bit deeper than that. Yes, in winter one may traditionally opt for a rich red, like a shiraz or pinot noir, but beyond that is a feeling. “Cold weather may remind you of a delightful village in a foreign country, where you had a certain bottle of wine — authentic, reflecting the place and the varietal. Then you search for the wine producer who was able to capture your senses in a magical way. A wine has to speak to your soul.”
Photograph courtesy Reid’s Fine Foods
Reid’s Fine Foods is a full gastronomical experience, one that Arcovio leans into when curating the wine list. “Our guests expect sips of wine and bites of food to be in perfect harmony — you know, that ‘Wow!’ moment when wine and food become one delicious experience. They expect to discover new wines, new flavors and find new favorites.” Hundreds of wines line the market shelves, tasted, analyzed and procured by Arcovio. These span from Old World wines to a multitude of West Coast selections, including their very own Reid’s and Leyla’s private wine labels.
Arcovio recommends: Leyla Oregon Pinot Noir. “This is our third vintage, and I think it is the best: concentration, depth of flavors, color and structure, earthy and expressive.”
Summit Coffee NoDa
416 E. 36th St.
Evelyn Henson’s Confetti Stripes mural next door leads to a covered patio of teal chairs and umbrellas, true to Summit’s signature aesthetic. A glass garage-style door opens to a French bistro-inspired shop, with botanical tiles lining a coffee bar set off by trailing pothos plants and rotating works from local artists.
A casual-yet-curated wine experience was the motivation and inspiration behind Summit Coffee NoDa’s wine list. Owner Melissa Varvaro set out to create an afternoon destination for those who didn’t want coffee but weren’t looking for a bar scene, either. Seeing the clear crossover in wine and coffee drinkers — those looking for high-quality beverages with soul and a story — Varvaro began curating her wine selection, ideal for those looking for a glass before heading home or out to dinner.
Annotated wine lists serve as a guide to Summit’s selection of organic and biodynamic wines, while quarterly wine tastings of small, independent labels give patrons the opportunity to develop an intimate knowledge of what they are drinking. The approach is simple, Varvaro says. “Sometimes you just want to have a glass of good wine that exceeds expectations — that you didn’t know you were looking for.”
Varvaro recommends: Trying something new, like a Vermentino — an Italian light-bodied wine similar to a sauvignon blanc.
The Brass Bird
320 Main St., Pineville
Stepping into The Brass Bird is a nostalgic experience, the shelves lined with curated artisan-made goods (including several local brands) and an exquisite bar serving wines by the glass. The modern-day mercantile opened in September in downtown Pineville. Its black-painted exterior, complete with gold accents and rocking chairs, emits a welcoming, elevated ambience, perfect for leisurely experimenting with new wines.
Owner Emily Anderson takes her inspiration from her trips to wine country. “While traveling through Sonoma and Mendocino, we fell in love with the local passion for good food, good wine, good friends and the American spirit,” she says. The primary focus of the wine selection is family-owned wines made in the U.S., with most sourced from California, Oregon and Washington vineyards. And Anderson loves knowing the story behind the wines in her collection — specifically those from Smith Story Wine Cellars, an organic winery in Sonoma whose philosophy centers on integrity and Old World technique. Located in a renovated historic landmark building, The Brass Bird is playing a role in returning downtown Pineville to its storefront roots, creating a community gathering place reminiscent of its historic past.
Anderson recommends: Smith Story sauvignon blanc, Sonoma County, 2022. “This sauvignon blanc is sourced from two family-owned organic vineyards in Sonoma County and is a true representation of the best that Sonoma has to offer.”
Stable Hand
125 Remount Rd. B
From the team behind HEX Coffee, Kitchen & Natural Wines, Stable Hand’s interior transports guests into an artistic landscape of approachable wines set inside its South End tasting room. A brightly hued abstract mural is the backdrop of Stable Hand’s retail wine shelf, mirroring the artistry behind the wine itself. As with HEX, Stable Hand focuses on natural wine, but here there’s a strong focus on classical European winemakers.
Innovative bar snacks accompany an ever-expanding natural wine list. Selections from Broc Cellars, a natural winery from California, speak to Stable Hand’s commitment to quality organic and biodynamic wines. Tastings from select vineyards and producers allow patrons to learn more about the wines, each at an approachable price point.
Wrenn recommends: Trying a selection from European producers found on the rotating wine list.
Arthur’s of Charlotte
4400 Sharon Rd.
With Arthur’s Wine Shop located on the lower level of Belk at SouthPark Mall and a newly opened Arthur’s Wine Bar on Belk’s main level, Arthur’s provides a tucked-away vintner experience, whether guests are taking a break from shopping or solely seeking out this unique wine experience. Employee Dana Fowler says that with excellent price points and an extensive menu, Arthur’s offers something for everyone — with an added bonus that you can shop throughout the entire four-level department store glass-in-hand.
Arthur’s has a rich history, beginning in uptown in 1972 before relocating to a coffee shop in the Ivey’s department store in 1973. Fast forward to 1990, when the shop relocated to the same Belk in which it currently resides. The history of shopping and sipping spans just over five decades, and education is at the heart of Arthur’s.
Photograph of Arthur’s by Michael Hrizuk
The Wine Shop hosts drop-in wine tastings each Saturday with what Fowler calls a “low-key, modern vibe,” and wine classes throughout the year, led by advanced and certified wine professionals. The hidden element of this specialty wine bar adds to its mystique — an understated space for fine wine.
Fowler recommends: Chateau Pontet Teyssier, Saint-Emilion, France — a blend of 80% merlot with the remaining 20% composed of cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. SP
Featured image: photograph of Salud Cerveceria by Justin Driscoll
A WINE GLOSSARY
Pét-nat: A sparkling wine made by bottling still-fermenting wine, resulting in a soft, fizzy, unfiltered (read: cloudy) wine. Short for the French pétillant naturel, which means “naturally bubbling.”
Orange wine: Also known as amber wine or skin-contact wine, orange wine is made with white-wine grapes that are allowed to macerate in their skins, similar to the way red wine is produced.
Natural wine: Wines typically made without the use of chemical pesticides or herbicides; with minimal to no sulfites; and with wild yeasts naturally present in the vineyard.
Biodynamic wine: Wines made with a holistic method of farming based around a specific astronomic calendar and without the use of chemicals.
