by Cathy Martin
They say everything’s big in Texas, but in Austin, it was the cozy cafes, quirky little shops and indie hotels that stole my heart. The Texas capital is literally morphing by the minute as tech companies exit California and set up shop in “Silicon Hills.” High-rise office and apartment towers are sprouting up all over town as Austin’s population swells. But despite the building boom, that laid-back, western cool that put Austin on the map is alive and well, if you know where to look for it.
EXPLORE
From floating on Lady Bird Lake to hiking or biking along the 10-mile Butler Trail, Austin has a plethora of ways to spend time outside. The Austin Rowing Club rents kayaks and standup paddleboards seven days a week. The Barton Springs Pool is a uniquely Austin experience: The 3-acre, spring-fed swimming pool attracts locals and visitors with year-round swimming and picnicking along the banks.
Another quirky, only-in-Austin thing to do: Take in the nightly spectacle put on by the resident bats inhabiting the Congress Avenue Bridge. You heard me — Austin is home to North America’s largest urban bat colony, thanks to a 1980 bridge renovation that unwittingly created an ideal habitat for the nocturnal creatures. From late March to early fall, wildlife watchers congregate nightly to await the flight of these Mexican free-tailed bats. The show starts at sunset, when the bats exit the bridge en masse, and lasts up to 45 minutes.
Kayaks on Barton Springs, Barton Springs
Austin’s shopping scene is diverse, and South Congress Avenue (aka SoCo) has it all, from vintage and handmade goods at SoCo Makers Market to trendy boutiques like Imogene + Willie. Shop for cowboy boots at the legendary Allen’s Boots. Paper Works sells works by local artists, including small prints and jewelry that fit nicely in a carry-on.
For indie bookstore fans, BookPeople on North Lamar is your place. The biggest independent bookshop in Texas has a coffee shop inside and hosts events big and small: During my September stay, the store hosted Austinite Matthew McConaughey as he wrapped his Poems & Prayers book tour at UT’s Bass Concert Hall.
Music is central to the Austin experience: To take in a live show, see who’s on the bill at uptown’s Moody Theater, home of “Austin City Limits.” Or plan a trip during ACL’s annual outdoor music festival, spanning two weekends in October at Zilker Park, Austin’s oldest city park.
STAY
Nestled on a lush, tree-filled lot close to Zilker and Lady Bird Lake, the Carpenter Hotel is an offbeat retro lodge that opened in 2018 but feels like it’s been around forever, with a little modern polish, of course.
The lobby and restaurant are housed in a renovated 1948 union meeting hall. The midcentury institutional flair is offset by the hotel’s smart branding, with playful nods to the property’s vintage roots and a fresh, vibey aesthetic.
The 93-room hotel — sibling to Austin’s Hotel Saint Cecelia, Hotel San Jose and others — is built around a central pool shaded by mature trees, a low-key spot for staving off the Texas heat. The small coffee shop buzzes from morning till night, with locals glued to their laptops and hotel guests rotating in and out. Rooms are simply furnished, with polished concrete floors and outdoor terraces with terra-cotta breeze blocks. There are thoughtful touches, too, like hemp-derived luxury bath products, striped cotton robes and complimentary bubbles at happy hour.
Lobby of Carpenter Hotel, Carpenter Hall restaurant, Carpenter Hotel’s room service
Carpenters Hall, the hotel’s restaurant and bar, is an off-the beaten-path destination for brunch, lunch, dinner or a casual hang, with a menu that emphasizes slow-cooking, smoking and fermentation. Start with smoked deviled eggs or grilled olives, then move on to duck confit carnitas or the pork schnitzel. Whatever you order, don’t leave without a slice of their “signature” carrot cake with orange zest and pecans.
The Carpenter is quintessential Austin: Cut-offs, trucker caps, tattoos and dogs are popular accessories here. For an immersive Austin experience, this is it.
If a lively downtown scene is more your speed, Hotel Van Zandt is conveniently located steps from the Waterloo Greenway and the Butler Trail, which hugs the shoreline of the lake. The hotel is just around the corner from Rainey Street, with its funky cocktail bars and restaurants in converted historic bungalows.
Hotel Van Zandt, Lobby of Hotel Van Zandt, Geraldine’s at Hotel Van Zandt
With a moody, masculine vibe, the Van Zandt plays up Austin’s musical legacy with vinyl rentals and nightly performances at its flagship restaurant, Geraldine’s. The menu here offers an elevated twist on traditional Mexican flavors, with standout dishes like the Oaxacan-inspired Tlayuda, a tostada-like dish with greens, avocado, pickled onion, prickly pear cactus, quesillo and a smoked-tomato vinaigrette, and the halibut, seared and served over frijoles puercos with salsa verde, chicharrons and avocado foam.
There’s a rooftop pool with a cozy fireplace and sunset views over the lake. When it’s time for a nightcap, swing over to the lobby bar for their signature Brass Poppy: tequila, mezcal, poppy liqueur, Aperol and lemon. Or, book the presidential suite and keep the party going. Spanning 900 square feet, the suite is comfortably furnished with extras like a poker table, vintage upright piano, soaking tub and wraparound views of the Austin skyline.
EAT+DRINK
Breakfast tacos are a staple in Austin, and Veracruz All Natural has three locations across town. Started as a food truck by sisters Reyna and Maritza Vazquez, Veracruz boasts more than a dozen tacos, from an Al Pastor with grilled pineapple to the hearty Migas Poblanos with egg, tortilla chips, poblanos, black beans, queso fresco and avocado.
For breakfast, brunch or lunch with a French flair, June’s All Day is a bright and cozy corner cafe in the buzzy South Congress district. Think fresh-squeezed juices, homemade crullers, tuna niçoise salad and a sinfully indulgent croque madame.
For a mid-afternoon pick-me-up, pop into Jo’s Coffee for their signature Iced Turbo with a hint of hazelnut, or grab a scoop of Mexican vanilla at Amy’s Ice Cream.
Emmer & Rye, Odd Duck, Peacock at Austin Proper Hotel
When dinner calls, Emmer & Rye is a modern, cozy bistro emphasizing local and seasonal ingredients with house-made breads and pastas, including an outstanding cacio e pepe. Another farm-to-table hot spot is Odd Duck, a restaurant spun out of a food truck with a casual atmosphere and complex, and at times surprising, flavor combinations.
One would be remiss to leave Austin without indulging in the local BBQ and Tex-Mex fare. Arrive early to avoid the lines at Terry Black’s Barbecue. For fajitas, enchiladas and other Tex-Mex classics — plus big, boozy margaritas — head to Matt’s El Rancho, a large, unpretentious eatery with a shady central patio.
For drinks or a nightcap in a chic and lively setting (plus great people-watching), The Peacock at Austin Proper Hotel is a must. Kelly Wearstler’s rich, layered design is an art- and architecture-lover’s dream.
GETTING THERE: Nonstop flights from Charlotte to Austin run about 3 hours and 15 minutes. SP
