by Michael J. Solender
As I approach the final turn onto River Ridge Drive leading into Pearisburg, Virginia’s Lilly Valley Inn, the scene coming into view is so dramatic that I pull the car over and get out, camera in hand. I’m determined to capture the perfect photo of the New River unspooling through the plunging, field- and forest-lined valley to reveal the natural amphitheater nearly 2,000 feet below me.
I should have waited.
Ten minutes later, with a chilled glass of sauvignon blanc in hand, I find the overlook from the inn’s wraparound porch — jutting out from the back of the bed-and-breakfast, high atop the river bluff — even more captivating. It turns out, the wow-inducing view is matched by the gracious hospitality and personal attention offered by the inn’s owner, Lilly Kneuer, a classically French-trained chef, and her husband Michael.
My wife and I are here, a scant three-hour drive north from Charlotte, on a no-agenda, spontaneous weekend getaway. Lured by the promise of outdoor exploration — hiking along the fabled Appalachian Trail, exploring the horticultural gardens at nearby Virginia Tech, fly-fishing for trout and bass in the icy New River, or cycling through the hilly Virginia Piedmont — we’re sold on the elegant yet unfussy accommodations. Easy access off Interstate 77, genuine warmth and hospitality, and gourmet three-course breakfasts make the inn a perfect launchpad for our weekend escape.
A love for entertaining
Kneuer acquired the property in early 2023 and reopened the inn that spring after renovations. Seven distinctive rooms offer direct access to the back porch. Other shared amenities include two great rooms — one for dining and lounging, another for entertainment. There’s also an adjacent two-bedroom cottage and plenty of shaded outdoor space to enjoy the morning sunrise and deer-spotting all day long.
Though she’s never operated a B&B before, Kneuer has plenty of hospitality chops from her years as a chef and culinary instructor. Her kitchen experience includes training at the Culinary Institute of America, tutelage in Lyon, France under acclaimed chef Paul Bocuse, and extensive work with food journalist and instructor Patricia Wells.
That she chose to operate a high-touch B&B over a restaurant speaks to Kneuer’s hospitality ethos and joy in connecting with others.
“I love to entertain,” Kneuer says. “I grew up in a European family, and we loved to have gatherings. That was our thing. Every Sunday, every special occasion, every holiday, we always got together. Hosting others comes naturally. I love connecting with our guests, meeting new people, and caring for them in a way that makes their stay special.”
Culinary delights
Guests find that connection through Kneuer’s kitchen.
Her three-course breakfasts ensure a regal start to the day. Starters might include a fresh fruit cocktail with strawberries and bananas or a cinnamon-infused poached pear, followed by a fresh-from-the-oven pastry filled with lemon-mascarpone cream. One morning we enjoyed a main course of oven-baked eggs with olive tapenade, and another day we had mini frittatas served with arugula salad.
For guests eager to sharpen their own culinary skills, Lilly Valley Inn offers chef-led, hands-on cooking classes. Held in the late afternoon, the classes culminate in a custom three-course dinner.
In our case, this meant a fresh tomato-basil tart appetizer, pan-seared cod over creamy polenta with a fresh corn and leek coulis, and a boozy bananas Foster for dessert. Chef Kneuer helped us select the perfect wine to accompany our meal, and engaging with the other guests at dinner was a highlight of our visit.
Explore or chill
No-agenda escapes allow the mood of the moment to dictate the day’s activities.
At Lilly Valley Inn, possible excursions include exploring the nearby Blacksburg Museum and Cultural Foundation, golf at the Pete Dye-designed River Course in Radford, or checking in with New River Adventures, a local outfitter arranging tubing, kayaking or canoeing on the river.
Hiking in the area is a big draw. There’s an aggressive 1,500-foot elevation rise on the Angel’s Rest Trail that connects to portions of the AT. We opted for a less onerous (though equally scenic) trek along the Cascades National Recreational Trail in Jefferson National Forest. Our reward for the 4-mile, half-day loop in the woods: a spectacular view of the 66-foot Cascades waterfall, one of the largest in Virginia.
Retail therapy awaited us after lunch at Sugar and Flour, a homey, handcrafted bakery and coffee bar in downtown Pearisburg. We stopped by Rustic Roots Olive Oils — the shop in downtown Blacksburg is an extension of Lilly Valley Inn and features specialty olive oils from Portugal, Spain and South Africa; unique vinegars; and French spice blends and salts curated by Chef Kneuer.
Back at the inn, the porch, my unread novel and a glass of chardonnay were calling — the best choices I made all weekend. SP
GETTING THERE: Lilly Valley Inn in Pearisburg, Virginia, is about a three-hour drive from Charlotte.
