Latin flair: Restaurateur Manny Flores puts a twist on Spanish tapas
July 25, 2024
Qué Hospitality founder Manny Flores introduces Charlotte diners to a fresh take on contemporary Latin cuisine. Catalú, his newest concept, offers Spanish tapas plus bold regional wines and cavas.
by Michael J. Solender | photographs by Justin Driscoll
Spend even a brief amount of time with Manny Flores, and you’ll quickly recognize him as an authentic and convivial host.
Making people feel welcome and comfortable in his Charlotte restaurants — he owns seven and counting — is second nature to Flores, founder and CEO of Charlotte’s Qué Hospitality. He has been in the business of creating lively and inviting eateries with creative food and inventive cocktails for his entire career.
Best known among them is his Que Onda brand. The contemporary Mexican restaurants focus on modern regional Mexican cuisine and tequila cocktails in relaxed, colorful spaces that encourage lingering and conversation.
Flores, 46, began his career as a restaurateur in 2015 when he opened his first Que Onda Tacos & Tequila in Huntersville. Others quickly followed, including restaurants in uptown, Plaza Midwood, Matthews and Wesley Heights, where his Que Fresa Taquéria + Bar has a smaller footprint with a Mexican street-food focus.
Salmon Vera Cruz at Que Onda; a taco trio at Que Onda; Manny Flores
Restaurant royalty
Flores came to the Queen City after more than two decades learning from and befriending some internationally recognized restaurateurs and hospitality pros.
“Starting out, I worked with José Andrés (acclaimed Spanish chef and founder of humanitarian relief organization World Central Kitchen) in Washington D.C. at his original restaurant, Jaleo,” recalls Flores, who immigrated to the D.C. area from his native El Salvador at age 5 with his parents. “I went in there as a dishwasher and food runner and gradually moved up the ranks.”
Flores’ knowledge quickly grew, and his operations savvy and hospitality orientation led him to become general manager at Jaleo in Bethesda, Md., at age 23. Over 11 years, he was part of a team that opened five restaurants for Andrés. Flores traveled extensively throughout Spain, becoming immersed in the regional cuisine, wine and hospitality culture.
“I learned so much over my time with José,” Flores says. “Though ultimately, I wanted to expand my knowledge beyond Spanish cuisine and expand my operational knowledge in a more corporate [multi-unit management] environment.”
Flores was especially keen to understand Mexican cuisine — his wife, Paola, is Mexican. He went to work with Richard Sandoval, founder of a global hospitality group with 60 locations and an emphasis on Latin cuisine.
Flores joined La Sandia, Sandoval’s Tysons Corner, Va., Mexican restaurant, as general manager in 2006. His career and friendship with Sandoval blossomed from there. “Richard is definitely a mentor for me,” says Flores, who worked with Sandoval for 10 years and eventually became director of operations.
Eventually, the nonstop commuting from his D.C.-area home to Sandoval’s headquarters in Denver and restaurants in California became a strain for his young family. His wife and two sons wanted him home for dinner more than one week per month.
Que Onda
A new take on Mexican fare in Charlotte
Establishing roots in Charlotte in 2014 (while still working for Sandoval) was a bit serendipitous. “I was ready to open my own restaurants. I had a goal of 10 restaurants in 10 years. The costs in D.C. were simply too high,” Flores says. “I often had layovers [in Charlotte] while traveling out west from the D.C. area, and I began to do some research on the area — home prices, schools and the Mexican restaurant landscape. There was nothing like what I wanted to do — contemporary and modern Mexican with a more sophisticated presentation.”
With his Que Onda restaurants, Flores offers a more refined presentation of Mexican fare. His concept is a shift from the typical cheese-smothered entrees with large portions of rice and beans. A craft cocktail program featuring premium tequilas complement the menu of burritos, tacos, fajitas and more.
Last year, the team visited Oaxaca, a region known as a culinary hotbed for Mexican cuisine. He wanted to bring the latest culinary trends from the region to his restaurants in a program he named “Passport to Mexico.”
Some dishes, like the Salmon Vera Cruz, became permanent menu selections. The dish brings bold Mexican flavors with a piquant salsa, briny popcorn capers, and a bright pop of acid with a squeeze of grilled lemon.
“What I’m after with my restaurants is a cultural celebration,” says Flores. “Our menus are very approachable. That’s why the Latin style of eating is so popular. People are with friends and family, off work and celebrating together.”
Left: Catalú in South End. Right: A paella dish at Catalú. Photographs courtesy Qué Hospitality.
Spanish tapas in South End
Earlier this spring, Flores opened Catalú in Charlotte’s bustling South End, in the space previously occupied by Eight & Sand Kitchen. The move represents a return to Flores’ restaurant origins and features his contemporary twist on classic Spanish tapas. The name Catalú is a diminutive form of Catalonia, the region of Spain where cuisine is heavily influenced by the Mediterranean and the natural bounty along the coast.
“Our inspiration comes from stepping out of the norm of what Spanish tapas restaurants are,” Flores says. “I want to focus on Catalonia, and hyper-focus on Barcelona, where the tapas are more chef-driven and offer a twist on traditional preparations.”
Guests find a menu studded with hot and cold small plates, rustic paellas and an exclusively Spanish wine list that includes classic bold Riojas, crisp sparkling Cavas, and nearly a dozen sherries ranging from dry to sweet.
“Little by little, we have worked to educate guests that the menu is not appetizers,” says Flores in describing Catalú’s offerings. It’s tapas, and we recommend between three to four tapas per person.” Sharing is the order of the day here, and Flores suggests moving from cold to hot and including one or more paella dishes.
The beet salad marries the perfectly sweet roasted root vegetables with a pistachio butter, whipped goat cheese and pistachio crumble. A balsamic reduction brings a tart/sweet finish to the perfect bite. The tapas classic pan con tomate from the cold section brings a twist with young Manchego cheese and grated fresh tomato atop an airy focaccia.
Catalú’s patatas bravas start with traditional crisped potato nuggets, tossed with fried garlic chips and drizzled with a garlicky aioli. Seafood shines on the menu here, and none more brightly than head-on large shrimp prepared as gambas al ajillo. The crustaceans are baked in garlic olive oil and dusted with chilis for a smoky, earthy taste.
Paella is personalized, and one order is enough for two to share. The Barcelona is for meat lovers and features Spanish chorizo, grilled steak and traditional Bomba short-grain rice dotted with garlic aioli.
For Flores, the restaurant is an extension of his passion — not just for Spanish food and culture, but the hospitality its people are known for. It’s a brand extension for Qué Hospitality that is on track for the vision for his company.
“I’m excited about Charlotte and the region,” Flores says, noting that he’s looking to South Carolina for future expansion. He’s excited about the evolution he’s witnessed in Charlotte’s culinary scene and wants his business to achieve more prominence in the region. “We want to be known for the best Latin experience in the Carolinas.” SP
Featured Image: Ancho Short Rib and a Sorbet Marg at Que Onda
