by Andrea Cooper
Welcoming flames from the firepit toasted us and our marshmallows in equal measure as we huddled and laughed in the 40-degree chill. It was my family’s first night at The Sanderling, named by readers of Condé Nast Traveler last year as the top resort in the South. We would feel plenty of other warm moments during our winter stay at this recently redesigned resort in tiny Duck on the Outer Banks.
The Sanderling takes full advantage of the resort’s pristine location, framed by the Atlantic Ocean and the Currituck Sound just 200 yards away. A redesign last year by Ward + Gray encourages relaxation with a palette of soft beachy colors, four-poster beds, textured fabrics and rooms with balconies overlooking the sound, dunes or ocean. The two-story main beach house — The Sanderling’s first building constructed in 1985 — offers cozy nooks to enjoy the views or play games. Accommodations include 123 guest rooms and six vacation homes. A new venue with views of the sound hosts weddings and special events.
Theodosia at The Sanderling. Photographs by Michael Clifford, courtesy The Sanderling Resort.
The renovation brought acclaimed chef Vivian Howard to The Sanderling in the form of her new seasonal restaurant, Theodosia. Howard, author of The New York Times bestseller Deep Run Roots: Stories and Recipes from My Corner of the South and star of the PBS show “A Chef’s Life,” plays with Southern flavors and the sea’s bounty on the menu. Diners can blend the two: Start with the clam chowder with soft-shell crab nuggets, followed by the blueberry BBQ duck entree, with lemon pie or muscadine sorbet for dessert. Theodosia will open for the season by Mother’s Day.
One hallmark of luxury is having more than you need where you are. Activities at The Sanderling are developed with on-site convenience in mind. Guests can start the day with a guided yoga session by the ocean and breakfast at the Lifesaving Station. The resort’s casual restaurant is located in the renovated Caffey’s Inlet Life Saving Station No. 5 from 1899, where teams once saved shipwreck survivors and their cargo.
The Sanderling’s sizable pools include a zero-entry version for kids and a separate adults-only “tranquility” pool. On the property, Kitty Hawk Kites offers surfboard, kayak and paddleboard rentals. The company can also book adventures from spearfishing to horseback riding on the beach to parasailing.
Bikes are complimentary for exploring the Duck Boardwalk with its shops, spectacular sunsets and prime spots for watching egrets, willets and other waterfowl on Currituck Sound. (Hey, there’s a reason this place is called Duck.) Coastal painting kits, movie nights, s’mores setups by the fire and stargazing are other low-key pleasures.
Photographs by Michael Clifford, courtesy The Sanderling Resort.
If all that activity makes you want to lie down, do it in style at the resort’s spa. I can vouch for the couple’s massage, topped off by a cool drink on the patio overlooking the sound. Next time, I’d try a warm bamboo massage to ease tight muscles from too many hours at the computer. Should your pup need a vacation too, he can stay for an additional fee and receive a bed, bowls, bandana and peanut butter treat upon check-in.
Duck was 17 years away from being incorporated as a town when The Sanderling opened in 1985. Though the population swells to more than 20,000 during the peak summer season, Duck’s year-round residents number fewer than a thousand. That’s part of the charm, combined with a surprisingly walkable “downtown.”
Some families return to the Outer Banks year after year for family trips. Charlotteans typically choose closer summer destinations like Carolina Beach or Isle of Palms. A little more time in the car gets you to a place where it feels like the sand, wind and sky all began.
GETTING THERE: Located on the Northern Outer Banks, Duck is about a 6-hour drive from Charlotte. SP
Excursions nearby
We had one of our best Outer Banks meals at N.C. Coast Grill & Bar in Duck. Try the cast-iron scallops in a black-cherry gastrique, set atop wild mushrooms.
See Corolla’s legendary herd of wild horses. We booked an open-air tour with Corolla Outback Adventures and appreciated the guide’s knowledgeable commentary about the Spanish mustangs who have lived here since the 1500s. Maybe you’ll get lucky and see ponies galloping on the beach or playing in the surf. Even the sight of wild horses munching on shrubbery in a remote neighborhood, accessible only by a 4×4 vehicle on the beach, was magnetic.
The Wright Brothers National Memorial in Kill Devil Hills is a fascinating introduction into the two men who helped all of us fly.
Explore downtown Manteo with its appealing waterfront, restaurants and shops. Highlights include River Walk Gallery featuring local artists, Downtown Books with Outer Banks titles, and Mia’s Bake Shop & Tea Room with homemade treats.
Take in a classic movie or show at The Pioneer Theater in Manteo, which calls itself “the oldest family-owned independent theater in the country,” founded in 1918. Artifacts in the lobby include a photo of a local boy who made good and a ladder with an illustrious history. The photo shows actor and Manteo resident Andy Griffith on the ladder, adding his name to the marquee to promote the East Coast premiere of his 1957 debut movie, A Face in the Crowd.
