The luxe Utah resort boasts impeccable design amid a jaw-dropping landscape, with plenty of activities to boot.
by Cathy Martin
I’m up just before sunrise on my last morning at Amangiri, taking photo after photo of the rust-colored horizon, trying to capture the early morning spectacle. I want to take it home with me, but no matter how hard I try, photos can’t fully capture the essence of this place.
Since its debut in 2009, the five-star hotel in Canyon Point, Utah, has been on many bucket lists and attracts a global clientele, including A-list celebrities. After a few days in this dreamy desert destination, it’s easy to see why.
Amangiri spans more than 900 acres — entering the resort feels like a private national park, surrounded by awe-inspiring ancient mesas and rock formations. (And coming from Charlotte, where everything “new” is in fashion, being among such geological wonders feels especially profound.)
A SEAMLESS DESIGN
If being immersed in such astounding natural beauty doesn’t impress, the resort’s impeccable design — nestled seamlessly into the landscape, with a minimalist aesthetic and purposeful elements around every corner — certainly will.
Aman hotels are named after the Sanskrit word for “peace,” and Amangiri roughly translates to “peaceful mountain,” a nod to a nearby Navajo peak. The ultra-luxury global hotel brand is known for promoting a sense of calm and relaxation, and for honoring local traditions and culture.
Left: The pool at Amangiri. Right: A slot canyon.
Amangiri is the result of its founder’s vision after coming across a giant sandstone rock formation that’s more than 165 million years old. The property was federally owned, so the developers orchestrated a land swap to build a dream hotel.
Every wall, window and perfectly placed skylight feels intentional: At the end of a wide covered breezeway, a rectangular aperture frames the desert landscape like a living postcard. Along an outdoor corridor, narrow glimpses of land and sky appear between structures, a reference to the slot canyons in the surrounding areas.
Each of the resort’s 34 suites has an unobstructed view of the desert or mesa, private enclosed patios, and outdoor terraces with firepits and daybeds — some have private plunge pools. Concrete walls and all-white-everything could feel cold, but there’s warmth in the wood tones, cozy wool area rugs underfoot and the soft desert glow that overlays everything in this part of the world.
Of course, the bed is uber-comfortable, the towels are perfectly plush and the Aman personal-care products are fabulous. But there are also gourmet snacks and a fully stocked fridge, essentials like a straw sun hat and tote in case you forgot them, and accessories like whip-stitched leather tissue boxes and carved-stone soap dispensers that look like they’re artisan-made.
Couples massage room at the spa, left, and a suite at Amangiri, right.
OUTDOOR THRILLS AND A SPRAWLING SPA
It would be easy to spend your days sipping prickly-pear margaritas by the pool, which wraps around that ancient sandstone escarpment and is one of the resort’s most stunning features. But with hundreds of acres to explore — including 12 miles of trails, plus the nearby Lake Powell, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and other natural wonders — you’d be remiss not to venture out.
A short hike to Broken Arrow Cave will give you the lay of the land. You’ll see petroglyphs, pottery shards and other ancient artifacts, along with remnants of a movie set — scenes from the 1996 John Travolta movie, Broken Arrow, were filmed here.
Amangiri has its own private via ferrata system, a series of cables and metal rungs designed to make rock climbing accessible to all skill levels. The first via ferratas were built during WWI, to transport troops in the Dolomites. As an inexperienced climber, I set out with my guide on the easiest route, the Hoodoo Via Ferrata, for a three-hour adventure. Following a 15-minute hike from the resort, the course follows narrow slot canyons, ascends a winding series of ladders and culminates with breathtaking summit views — plus a thrilling chance to traverse a suspension bridge spanning a 600-foot gorge.
The author climbing the Hoodoo Via Ferrata route at Amangiri
If you’re more of a passive adventure traveler, the resort offers helicopter and e-bike tours, hot-air balloon rides and UTV trips. During the summer months, there are boating excursions on Lake Powell, where you can explore secluded coves or take a private jet-ski tour. There are family-friendly options as well, including horseback riding and a via ferrata route with a replica dinosaur dig. If you can dream it (and have the budget to make it happen), there’s a good chance they can do it. Want a helicopter lift to a private yoga session atop a mesa? Yep, that’s a thing here.
After a rigorous climb or slot-canyon hike, you’ll want to recover with a little spa time. Treatments begin with a sage smudging to cleanse away negative energy. Leave ample time before or after your massage, facial or guided meditation to enjoy the step pool, cold plunge, sauna or steam room at the sprawling, 25,000-square-foot spa complex.
If you’re still up after sundown, you’ll be treated to a stargazing experience like no other. I woke up one night at 3 a.m., stepped outside and was greeted with a blanket of stars. With almost zero light pollution here, the sky puts on a show each evening.
Wellness experience, left, and the restaurant at Camp Sarika, right
DELECTABLE DINING
Amangiri’s restaurant offers desert views and a terrace for dining poolside. The menu leans Asian but incorporates regional ingredients and techniques. There are plenty of plant-based options too, along with palate-pleasing staples for pickier eaters.
The cast-iron pancake at breakfast has become legendary — the fluffy inch-thick confection is topped with macerated berries and served with Utah maple syrup. Other standouts included a wild mushroom wood-fired pizza (sauce Mornay, fresh mozzarella, white truffle essence and herbs) at lunch and a spicy Three Sisters curry (Sonoran Desert grains, heirloom vegetables, kaffir, jasmine rice) at dinner, paired with a soothing Giri-style French martini (Chopin vodka, Chambord, lavender and lemonade).
At nearby Camp Sarika — a sort of resort-within-a-resort featuring 10 luxury safari tents for guests wanting more space and privacy — the fixed dinner menu changes nightly. It’s worth dining here at least once during your stay to take in an up-close view of the majestic Studhorse Mesa.
Camp Sarika
ALL IN THE DETAILS
One of the most extraordinary things about Amangiri is the stillness — the quiet. You won’t hear traffic, loud music or even much wildlife, aside from the occasional chirping of a cliff swallow or the rustling of a ground squirrel darting across the desert floor. And with fewer than 50 suites and pavilions, the resort never feels crowded.
Beyond its brilliant design and pristine location, little details make a stay at Amangiri extra-special: manicured fruit trees throughout the property — pick a plum or two for a sweet midday snack — or special turndown treats like a Navajo dream catcher or sage bundle to take a piece of the experience home.
Even the art is literally of this place. German artist Ulrike Arnold visits annually to create expansive canvases made entirely with native materials — sand, shale, clay, volcanic ash — her gestural works standing out while simultaneously blending in with the natural landscape.
Driving out to catch an early flight home, as the bright orange sun inches over the horizon, I’m feeling calm and grounded. I’ve checked a box off the bucket list, but all I can think about is coming back. SP
GETTING THERE:
Book a nonstop flight from Charlotte to Las Vegas; it’s a four-hour drive to Amangiri, but the scenery along the way is magnificent. Or, opt for a connecting flight to Page, Arizona, about 25 minutes from the resort. Amangiri provides complimentary transfers from Page. Overnight stays include breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus daily guided group hikes and wellness classes. Alcohol, spa treatments and experiences are extra.
Photographs courtesy Amangiri.
