You’ll find waterfalls, cycling, wineries and more in this region that’s only a 2-hour drive from Charlotte.
by Kayleigh Ruller
I now know what it’s like to want to wake up with the sun, thanks to a recent trip to the mountainous, river-studded Upcountry region of South Carolina. Waking up at sunrise, I found myself refreshed and ready to dive headfirst into my day and feel the elements. (OK, realistically I felt that way 10 to 15 seconds after the initial wake-up jolt).
This travel experience was notably different from the standard vacation mode — the fun, albeit tiring, late-night-wine-to-sleeping-in routine. My week in the Upcountry — generally defined as the northwest part of the state bordering North Carolina and Georgia, and known to many as the Upstate — unveiled a different type of vacation — one that’s energizing, not depleting. Here are the places to explore, dine and stay that brought me back into my senses.
While nothing about this guide requires you to wake up with the sun, a few sips of that fresh mountain air and dips into clear water just might convince you.
PLAY
Play is top priority in the Upcountry, an underexplored region where outdoor activities elicit a kind of childlike, playing-in-the-grass type of joy.
Scenic strolls are a big draw. In Greenville, take a city stroll on the 28-mile Swamp Rabbit Trail — a well-traveled greenway where you can pop in and out of cafes, restaurants and shops while you’re enjoying the fresh air. The Spartanburg Music Trail is a 30-minute, meandering downtown walk that provides a bit of history — and a lot of steps. Who knew musicians that worked with Elvis and Paul Simon came right from Spartanburg? Just down the road, the Hatcher Garden and Woodland Preserve is a 13-acre botanical garden that, in my experience, does something wonderful for the nervous system.
Waterfalls are also a thing here. I visited the 400-foot Raven Cliff Falls in Caesars Head State Park and Rainbow Falls in Jones Gap State Park. The sweeping, eye-candy waterfalls are well worth the 4.4-mile and 5-mile hikes, respectively, to get there.
For the more adventurous, switch it up with some mountain biking at Paris Mountain State Park. The Bike Farm, slightly north of the Upcountry in Pisgah, North Carolina, offers half- and full-day guided bike tours. You might also get a rush of adrenaline while horseback riding in nearby Pickens. Led by Horseback Waterfall Tours, you’ll trot through bright foliage, rugged terrain and along granite slabs and waterfall-lined ridges.
For a leisurely activity on the opposite end of the spectrum, float along the Saluda River in Greenville. During the warmer months, the Saluda Outdoor River Company offers tube rentals for an unhurried, 2.5-hour glide down the river. Dogs are welcome to float, too.
If kids — or hey, adventurous and competitive adults — are tagging along on this trip, check out Greenville’s Flying Rabbit Adventures. This adventure center includes a high-ropes course with 53 obstacles and five ziplines.
STAY
My stay at Hotel Domestique in Travelers Rest transported me to a pastoral abode-meets-Alpine chateau. This hotel’s identity is built around cycling; the inn offers high-end bikes for rent, group biking trips and cycling guides upon request. But don’t shy away from Hotel Domestique even if you aren’t a cyclist — there’s a saltwater pool, an infrared sauna, a hot tub and a cold plunge tub, as well.
For a more immersive, tucked-away feel, snag a glamped-up tree house called The Forestry House in Travelers Rest. Situated in a canopy of trees, the house is quite luxe and gives visitors an exclusive back-to-nature feel. If you’re visiting with a large group, the Keowee Waterfront Lakeside Retreat on quiet, quaint Lake Keowee is a wonderful option. Camp Buckhorn has a woodsy lodge and nine cozy cabins — simple, unfancy and tucked right into Paris Mountain State Park.
As lovely as a nature escape is, a go-big-or-go-home philosophy has its perks, too. At the Grand Bohemian Lodge in downtown Greenville, you don’t have to sacrifice an ounce of comfort for fresh air, a woodsy feel and direct access to nature. The lodge sits along the Reedy River, overlooks Falls Park and is entirely walkable to Greenville’s downtown attractions. A cocktail at the hotels’ aptly-named Between the Trees restaurant doesn’t hurt, either.
DRINK + DINE
South Carolina isn’t known for its wine, but that’s not stopping her from importing grapes and giving us the breezy vineyard experience we deserve.
Eagle Mountain Vineyards & Winery in Travelers Rest is set against the Blue Ridge Parkway. Outside, you can sip wine sitting by the fire pits, walking in the sculpture garden or playing bocce ball. At City Scape Winery in Pelzer, South Carolina — about 30 minutes south of Greenville — there’s a dog-friendly patio and a sweeping outdoor terrace for wine tastings.
For farm-to-table fare, you can actually see where your food comes from at several farms surrounding Spartanburg. Greyrock Farms, Harp & Shamrock Croft, and Hughey Farms offer a range of fresh local honey, produce, jams and jellies.
In Greenville, skip out on restaurant-decision fatigue and check out Foothill Foodie Tours, where a guide has the spots selected for you on this walking food tour. The themed tours encompass everything from date-night cocktails to Saturday-morning breakfast.
Filling with new blossoms and young foliage this spring and boasting a lineup of restorative accommodations, the Upcountry of South Carolina — just under a 2-hour drive from Charlotte — may just have you waking up with the sun. SP
Photographs courtesy South Carolina Association of Tourism Regions
