Memorable meals for the holidays
October 30, 2024
6 Charlotte chefs and bakers share Thanksgiving traditions and tips.
by Michael J. Solender
Autumn in Charlotte brings relief from summer’s steamy grip, as the leaves begin their annual show of vibrant colors ahead of the holiday season. For professional chefs across the Queen City, there’s often a dual emphasis on creating both memorable meals for patrons and for the dining table at home. SouthPark Magazine asked six Charlotte chefs and bakers for their take on the annual fall gratitude fest, from holiday memories to favorite dishes — plus some sage advice for the home chef.
Responses have been lightly edited for length.
Mary Jayne Wilson, owner of Thoughtful Baking Company, left, and her grandmother, Mary Ann Briley Emmons, right
Mary Jayne Wilson, a devout pie-maker, has been lucky to have family members host Thanksgiving over the last few years. “Because of the demands of my business for Thanksgiving pies, it is a treat to be able to show up and eat without cooking,” says Wilson, a Johnson & Wales graduate who launched her business in 2021. “Usually by the time the actual day of Thanksgiving hits, I am fully exhausted from making hundreds of pies for our customers.”
Wilson doesn’t escape without contributing, however. “I do usually try to bring rolls and desserts,” she says. “I am the gravy-maker in my family. I always make sure we have the loveliest rolls to sop up all that perfect gravy.”
One of her favorite family celebrations was a recent Thanksgiving with her late grandmother, who everyone called Sunshine. “She was such a special person that had a big impact on my life. Thanksgivings aren’t the same without her.”
ON THE MENU: Thoughtful Baking customers can look forward to a pie extravaganza at Thanksgiving, with favorites such as traditional pumpkin pie, turkey dinner pot pie, Dutch apple pie (vegan), maple pecan pie and others.
Shai Fargian, executive chef and partner at Yafo Kitchen and executive chef at Calle Sol
Shai Fargian’s Thanksgiving meals are a mix of traditional, contemporary and ethnic. “We always have a roasted turkey, sweet potato casserole and pecan pie,” Fargian says. “One of my favorite things in that meal are sausage balls that our cousin makes. For the last couple of years, we made plantain and chorizo stuffing with the Cuban bread we use at Calle Sol. It was delicious and blended in well, as my wife’s family is Cuban.”
Fargian also enjoys Thanksgiving fare from Yafo and Calle Sol, which are part of FS Food Group. “I always bring home some shawarma spiced rotisserie turkey and pans of Yafo mac and cheese.”
His most important tip for home chefs? “Time your food [so it all is ready to serve at once],” Fargian says. “Use both the stovetop and oven, and make as much of the meal in advance as you can.”
ON THE MENU: Yafo Kitchen plans to offer a to-go menu including rotisserie turkey breast, Greek stuffing and mac and cheese at Thanksgiving. At Calle Sol, look for Peruvian turkey, sweet potato casserole and Cuban bread stuffing.
Carlos Nevarez, chef at El Puro Cuban Restaurant
For Carlos Nevarez, Thanksgiving typically involves a visit to his brother’s farm in central Florida, north of Miami, where he grew up.
“Cooking during the holidays can be stressful,” says the Puerto Rico native. “My top tips for home chefs are to stay calm, don’t get overwhelmed and remember to cook from the heart.”
For Nevarez, cooking from the heart means traditional dishes such as turkey alongside savory and sweet Puerto Rican dishes such as arroz con gandules (rice and pigeon peas), alcapurrias (beef and plantain fritters) and coquito, a coconut-based version of eggnog.
ON THE MENU: While El Puro will be closed for Thanksgiving, the restaurant will host a special pre-holiday event Nov. 15-17 to mark its third anniversary. The weekend includes special dance and musical performances.
Heather King, executive chef at Steak 48
Because Thanksgiving is a “work” day at the restaurant, Heather King typically hosts her holiday meal — a small gathering of family and friends — the Sunday prior to the holiday. King is “queen” of the home kitchen and is squarely in charge of the main meal.
“My favorite Thanksgiving dish is green bean casserole,” says King, who has worked at Steak 48 since it debuted in Charlotte four years ago. “For me, it immediately evokes a childhood memory. Growing up, my grandmother was the one who always made it. Then it switched to my mom, and now it’s me. I’m not ashamed to admit just how much of it I can eat. Here’s a little pro tip for a delicious green bean casserole: Add a little bit of shredded white cheddar to it.”
For King, the Thanksgiving sentiment is as important as the meal.
“I can’t help but smile as I go through pictures from Thanksgiving each year,” she says. “Life gets so busy for everyone, so it’s [few and far] between that you’re together. I love those moments and cherish the memories made when we’re together.”
ON THE MENU: Steak 48 will be open noon-9 p.m. on Thanksgiving Day, serving its full menu plus a traditional Thanksgiving dinner with turkey, stuffing, maple-glazed seared carrots and more.
Jonathan Shuler, culinary director at Dilworth Tasting Room (DTR)
Thanksgiving is a traditional affair for Jonathan Shuler, the New York-born chef who has worked at DTR for the last five years. “Everyone brings something, and we eat together as a family” This year, Shuler will get a reprieve from making the big meal as he spends the holiday with his fiance’s family in Georgia. But he does plan to bring a beloved dessert — pumpkin cheesecake.
Shuler cautions home chefs that Thanksgiving is not the time for experimentation. He is also an advocate for a technique known as dry brining, letting the turkey “marinate” several hours or overnight in a heavily seasoned dry rub of salt, sugar and spices. The result is a deeper flavor and a moister bird.
ON THE MENU: DTR will be closed on Thanksgiving Day.
Douglas and Kaitlin Rose and family, owners of Team Rose Bread
Thanksgiving means all hands on deck for Douglas and Kaitlin Rose, who run an artisan bread shop out of their home near SouthPark. That includes the couple’s four children, ages 8 to 14.
“We begin the day by baking around 1,200 cinnamon rolls for our customers,” Doug Rose says. “When pickups end at 10:30 a.m., we go on a neighborhood turkey trot with our kids and anyone else who wants to join.” That’s followed by a quick afternoon nap to recover from the morning bake, then Thanksgiving dinner at Doug’s parents’ house.
Rose, a traditionalist when it comes to the Thanksgiving meal, has strong opinions on side dishes for the table.
“Every stuffing should have a wild-card ingredient,” he says. “My mom puts water chestnuts in her stuffing (I love crunch!), and Kait’s family puts sausage in their stuffing (some German influence along with a side of sauerkraut).”
And Rose is unequivocal in his stance on cranberry sauce. “I don’t care how amazing your slow simmered, 100-year-old recipe, aromatic-infused cranberry sauce is, the canned, gelatinous variety will always be my first love.”
Always reflective during the season, Douglas recalls a particularly fond Thanksgiving memory from 2018, when the family lived in Italy. “We spent Thanksgiving that year at the goat farm of some dear friends we made while living there. Family and friends flew in to join us, and our Italian friends procured and cooked a turkey for us with some Italian-inspired sides. It was truly special.”
ON THE MENU: Team Rose Bread will offer fresh-baked, classic sourdough brioche cinnamon rolls for pickup Thanksgiving morning. SP
